Shelter Island

The island’s history traces back to its original inhabitants, who were indigenous peoples sharing cultural ties with those residing north of Long Island Sound. When Europeans arrived, the island was home to the Manhanset tribe, who spoke Algonquian and were linked to the Pequot and other Algonquian groups in New England. The original name given to the island by the Manhanset Indians was “Manhansack-aha-quash-awamock,” which translates to “Island sheltered by islands” in English.

Early settlers

Shelter Island’s history is intertwined with colonial land grants and transactions. Originally part of the Plymouth Company land grant by James I of England in 1620, Shelter Island later came under the ownership of William Alexander, 1st Earl of Stirling, who received a grant from Charles I of England in 1636 covering all of Long Island and nearby islands. James Farret, acting as Alexander’s agent, was rewarded with 12,000 acres for his role in colonization, selecting Shelter Island and Robin’s Island for his personal use. Farret subsequently sold these islands to Stephen Goodyear, a founder of the New Haven Colony, in 1651.

Goodyear, in turn, sold Shelter Island to a group of Barbados sugar merchants in exchange for 1,600 pounds of sugar in 1651. Nathaniel Sylvester, one of these merchants, became Shelter Island’s first white settler. Born in Rotterdam, Sylvester had previously lived and worked in Barbados, leveraging his connections in Barbados and the Netherlands to establish a successful trading enterprise. In 1652, Sylvester formalized the purchase with Youghco (also known as Poggatticut), the sachem of the Manhanset tribe. Although Sylvester’s brother Constant and Thomas Middleton were listed as co-owners, they never settled on Long Island. In 1673, Nathaniel Sylvester claimed ownership of Shelter Island, Fishers Island, and other parts of Long Island, as the Manhansett tribe dwindled in numbers and influence by that time.

Colonial era

Shelter Island boasts a rich history intertwined with notable figures and landmarks. James Nicoll Havens, a prominent member of the New York Provincial Congress, constructed a residence on the island in 1743. He held the distinction of being the first town supervisor. Today, his former abode is preserved by the local historical society, a testament to his legacy and the island’s heritage.

Another significant figure in Shelter Island’s history is Jonathan Nicoll Havens (1757–1799), a native of the island. He made his mark as a member of the First Continental Congress in 1774 and contributed to New York’s delegation that ratified the federal constitution in 1788. The Nicolls family, to which Jonathan belonged, owned Mashomack Forest, known today as Mashomack Nature Preserve, for an impressive 230 years. The family’s influence is further commemorated by Nicolls Creek, named in their honor. Additionally, remnants of the Manhanset tribe persisted in the wooded Sachem’s Neck area until the 1790s, underscoring the island’s diverse and enduring cultural tapestry.

Shelter Island Heights established

Shelter Island Heights emerged in 1871 as a summer haven for camp meetings, initiated by a consortium of Brooklyn businessmen who acquired the Frederick Chase estate for this purpose. Spearheaded by the Shelter Island Grove and Camp Meeting Association of the Methodist Episcopal Church, this endeavor flourished under the stewardship of Robert Morris Copeland. Copeland’s vision shaped the landscape, culminating in the iconic Union Chapel, meticulously crafted in 1875 and recognized as a National Historic Landmark in 1984.

Copeland’s meticulous planning extended beyond the chapel, encompassing the entire Shelter Island Heights. Infused with classic American architectural motifs such as Stick-Eastlake, Queen Anne Style, and Colonial Revival, the enclave flourished during the camp meeting era, witnessing the construction of approximately 70 summer cottages between 1872 and 1880. Remarkably, the district retained its architectural integrity over time, with residences remaining largely unchanged since the late 19th century. Reflecting its historical significance, Shelter Island Heights earned recognition as a Historic District on both the National Register of Historic Places and the New York State Register of Historic Places in 1993.

Growth after 1900

Francis Marion Smith, hailed as the “Borax King” for his remarkable mining achievements, and his family acquired a residence on the island in 1892. Expanding it into a grand estate boasting over 30 rooms, Smith christened it Presdeleau, signifying its idyllic waterfront setting. His land holdings burgeoned to encompass more than 500 acres by 1906, primarily concentrated on the island’s southern flank. Smith’s influence extended beyond mere land ownership, with geographical features like Smith Cove and Smith Street memorializing his legacy. A passionate advocate of wildlife preservation, he imported deer from California to establish a “deer park” on his estate, whose descendants still roam certain parts of the island today. The enduring remnants of Presdeleau include robust concrete retaining walls and a picturesque “Japanese” footbridge, crafted around 1898 by Ernest L. Ransome, located behind Merkle Lane.

Artemas Ward, another affluent figure of the 19th century, graced Shelter Island with his expansive estate. A trailblazer in mass-market advertising, Ward amassed immense wealth by monopolizing advertising on New York City’s elevated trains, subways, and streetcars. His southern island abode provided a serene retreat, reflecting the opulence of his success. Additionally, Ward penned a biography chronicling the life of his great-grandfather, Major General Artemas Ward, a distinguished figure in the American Revolutionary War. Despite protracted legal battles, the vestiges of Ward’s original estate in the Shorewood section have undergone extensive renovations, including the restoration of the manor house, formal Italian gardens, and a distinctive concrete water tower. Notably, the manor house has undergone partial “deconstruction” to recapture its earlier architectural essence, preserving a slice of the island’s storied past.